Lesvos 2017 Bird Trip Report: April 28th - May 1rst

My annual spring birding trip in Lesvos was focused on bird photography this year. As I get to know the island better year by year, I decided to spend more time to the wilder west part, and discover Faneromeni fields, and Meladia Valley down to the river mouth. Also, get some better pics of Kruepper’s Nuthatch and Cinereous Buntings. So here is a trip report from this years' birdwatching trip.

Some information about the trip:

Flights: Aegean Airways flies everyday from Athens, about 40 min flight.
Hotel: Diamandi Studios, at Skala Kallonis. A quiet family owned “rooms to rent” type of studio. Very kind owners, walking distance from Skalla Kalloni’s restaurants and cafes.
Food: At Skalla Kallonis, Dionysos Taverna is a must, not only for the food specialties, especially sea food, but also for the “birding” atmosphere that clients bring to the place. It is a meeting place for most birders, after an exhausting every day around the island. Try different local dishes, you will not be disappointed. Prices are very reasonable.
My favorite breakfast: Taxiarchis Bakery at Skalla Kallonis. Birders do not take breakfast when on bird trip. We only get our day “fuel” from local bakeries. Taxiarchis is one of them. Sited just beside the little harbor, a small little bakery, easier to smell that to see it. The owner is always making jokes, he is the most fascinating man on the village. Try anything from the shelves, I usually go for the ham and cheese pie. Just going in this bakery makes me think of this warm and friendly part of Greece that is sadly disappearing.
Kalloni village: A very cheap (but very delicious) meal can be eaten at “Alexandros”. This is a classical “gyros” places. So, you should try Gyros. It costs 2.50euros and it’s a full meal. Together with a greek salad, I ate the twice while I was around Kalloni saltpans during the day or afternoon. With around 10-12 euros you will be more than full.

Car rental: Since 3 years now, I use Tsalis Car rental. Very reliable company, with friendly staff and office at Kalloni too. This year I got a 4x4 Fiat Panda, and I managed to get everywhere. I just loved this car, very light and flexible, ideal for birders. A lot more comfortable than the Suzuki Jimny I had last year.

Apart from my breakfast box from Taxiarchis bakery, I used My Market a couple of times, just behind Kalloni central road, a big supermarket with cheaper prices and great variety that any local food store.

Sigri: One of the best food experiences I had was lunch in Cavo d’Oro in Sigri. The most amazing seafood risotto I even tried, combined with local Ouzo and other small appetizers, like octopus and fresh made eggplant salad. 

Lesvos sea food lunch time

Delicious sea food risotto

Birding information: I always have “Birding in Lesvos” by Steve Dudley with me in every trip to the island. It’s the most accurate and detailed guide. Also, the Facebook group that Steve created, “Lesvos birders” is worth joining for any latest bird arrivals. From there I had several people asked for information and were all happy to provide them. Local birder Eleni Gallinou helped me a lot to find species I was looking for. Also local nature photographer Petros Tsakmakis was the perfect companion during 2 out of 4 birding days. Together we enjoyed several of photographic as well as gastronomic moments, both will remain unforgettable.    

Day 1: House Martins were the first bird species I saw while the aircraft was landing at 6:30am at Lesvos airport. There were plenty of nests of both House Martins and Barn Swallows all around the building of the airport, so hundreds of birds were flying in the area.

As soon as I got the car, I moved south towards Haramida. Together with Antonis, we had excellent views of breeding Rueppell’s Warblers and Cretzschmar’s Buntings. Early morning light was the best to capture some nice poses of these 2 species. After a couple of hours we also had our first Masked Shrike, Hoopoe and Black-eared Wheatear. 

Rueppell's Warbler at Haramida, Lesvos

Around mid day, we drove west, towards Kalloni Gulf. A Black Stork was recorded at Mesa as well as Black-headed Buntings, Olivaceaous Warblers and Red-rumped Swallows. Moving down to Tsiknias River we could enjoy White-winged Terns, Black-winged Stilts, Short-toed Larks and Middle Spotted Woodpeckers in the nearby orchards. The first day ended in Kallonis Saltpans, having recorder several species of waders, but not in great numbers like previous years.

Common Tern at Kalloni Wetland, Lesvos

Day 2. Having heard about Baillon’s Crake at Metochi Lake last night, I woke up early enough to avoid the hoards of birders in this small pond. I saw the bird clearly, but could not get a descent photo between the reeds. Little Crakes were there too, Little Bitterns, Bee-eaters were flying over later on, while a Long-legged Buzzard was soaring around 8am over the fields surrounding Metochi Lake.

Next stop was Ipsilou Monastery. Cinereous Bunting was there, more active in the north-east part of the hill, going upwards. Bird were very active singing, providing great photographic moments. On the other side of the hill, close to the parking area, several Isabelline Wheaters were recorded. Overall, Ispilou Monastery did not provide many species.

Cinereous Bunting at Ispilou Monastery, Lesvos

Rock Nuthatch

Then, the western part of the island was there to discover. I started with Faneromeni area which proved to be rather empty! A few Turtle Doves here and there, a couple of Woodchat Shrikes, a Red-backed Shrike and some Golden Orioles well hidden in the foliage of the almond trees. We were already hungry by 2pm time, so we had lunch at Cavo d’Oro at Sigri, truly an unforgettable meal!

The afternoon was all devoted to Meladia Valley. Highlights of the area were Golden Orioles and a forgotten but very “friendly” Temminck’s Stint. Eastern Orphean Warblers all along the road towards Eressos, Rock Nuthatches, Little Crake right on the little paved road bridge, Sardinian Warblers, lots of Black-headed Buntings, Bee-eaters, Black-headed Buntings, and of course Crested Larks, one of the most abundant birds on the island, together with Corn Buntings.

Temminck's Stint at Meladia Valley, Lesvos

Golden Oriole at Meladia, Lesvos

Day 3: We started from Parakila, an excellent place to see Cinereous Buntings, Cretzschmar’s Buntings from very close distance. We drove up the road that overlooks St-John’s chapel (Agios Ioannis) and stayed there until we got enough of these two species. Then, we drove down to Makara river mouth, were a beautiful Citrine Wagtail was waiting for us in the little stream. I was really excited, since it was the first male I ever saw of this species and managed to get some distant pics, since we could not easily approach it. 

Cretzschmar's Bunting at Parakila, Lesvos

Citrine Wagtail at Makara river mouth, Lesvos

We continued up to the Petrified Forest, where we had again Cinereous Bunting, Chukar, Hoopoe, Short-toed Eagle, Woodchat Shrikes, Black-headed Buntings.

Coming back around Kalloni, I decided to drive along Napi Valley. The oak trees in this area provide shelter for Olive-tree Warber, which I did not manage to see. On the other hand, lots of Masked Shrikes and Black-eared Wheatears, Olivaceous Warblers, Blue Tits, Cirl Buntings, Whinchats. 

Subalpine Warbler

Eastern Orphean Warbler

Day 4: Today was May 1rst, when locals like to gather in Achladeri forest for a huge BBQ fiesta. So, we had to be there before 9am, in order to be in a quiet area to enjoy Kruepper’s Nuthatch. We were lucky enough to find other birders who had previously found a nest, so we spend more than 2 hours watching the parents searching for food and bringing it back to the nest to a young nestling. The behavior was almost the same every time; the parents would leave and they would get back after 10-15 minutes with one or more caterpillars hanging from their mouth. Then, they would wait for 2-3 minutes in a nearby tree, just to inspect the area around the nest, and when they became sure that there was no disturbance, they would fly fast towards the nest, feed the young and go back to find another caterpillar.

Kruepper's Nuthatch at Achladeri forest, Lesvos

Scops Owls were missing from our list, so we moved to Papiana Soccer Pitch at Kalloni, and we easily found three birds on the Eucalyptus trees. This is by far, the easiest way to see Scops Owl in Greece! I’ve been listening to their call all year long, especially in the summer, but only in Lesvos I can always get such clear views.

My flight back to Athens was late in the afternoon, so I spent some of the last hours at Kalloni Wetland, enjoying some last views of Ruddy Shelducks, Little Terns, Common Terns, Flamingos, Avocets, Kentish Plovers, Spanish Sparrows, Black-headed Wagtails. This years’ trip was over and I had been more that satisfied again with so many unforgettable wildlife experiences. 

Other wildlife

Odalisque (Epallage fatime) close to Achladeri

European Hedgehog (Erinaceus europaeus) at Parakila main road

Snake-eye Lizard (Ophisops elegans)

Starred Agama (Laudakia stellio) in almost every rock on Lesvos island

 Species List of 107 recorded bird species

Number	Bird Species	Location
1	Shag	Kalloni Gulf
2	Little Grebe	Metochi Lake
3	White Stork	Kalloni
4	Black Stork	Mesa, Kalloni
5	Grey Heron	Common
6	Purple heron	Metochi lake, Kalloni Pool
7	Great White Egret	Kalloni
8	Little Egret	Common
9	Squacco Heron	Kalloni Pool
10	Little Bittern	Metochi
11	Glossy Ibis	Kalloni
12	Flamingo	Kalloni
13	Shelduck	Kalloni
14	Ruddy Shelduck	Kalloni, Mesa
15	Teal	Kalloni
16	Mallard	Kalloni
17	Ferruginous Duck	Kalloni, Metochi
18	Marsh Harrier	Kalloni, Tsiknias
19	Long-legged Buzzard	Metochi
20	Common Buzzard	Common
21	Eleonorae’s Falcon	Sigri
22	Common Kestrel	Common
23	Lesser Kestrel	Sigri fields
24	Short-toed Eagle	Ipsilou, Eressos
25	Little Crake	Metochi, Meladia Valley
26	Baillon’s Crake	Metochi
27	Moorhen	Common
28	Coot	Common
29	Black-winged Stilt	Common
30	Pied Avocet	Kalloni
31	Collared Pratincole	Kalloni
32	Kentish Plover	Kalloni
33	Little Ringed Plover	Common
34	Wood Sandpiper	Common
35	Redshank	Common
36	Spotted Redshank	Kalloni
37	Little Stint	Common
38	Temminck’s Stint	Meladia Valley
39	Dunlin	Kalloni
40	Ruff	Common
41	Yellow-legged Gull	Common
42	Black-headed Gull	Common
43	Common Tern	Kalloni
44	Little Tern	Kalloni
45	White-winged Tern	Kalloni
46	Black-winged Tern	Kalloni
47	Turtle Dove	Common
48	Collared Dove	Common
49	Scops Owl	Papiana Soccer Pitch
50	Little Owl	Common
51	Common Swift	Common
52	Pallid Swift	Common
53	Alpine Swift	Common
54	Bee-eater	Common
55	Hoopoe	Common
56	Middle Spotted Woodpecker	Tsiknias, Napi Valley
57	Greater Short-toed Lark	Tsiknias, Kalloni
58	Wood Lark	Ipsilou
59	Sand Martin	Common
60	Crag Martin	Antissa
61	House Martin	Common
62	Barn Swallow	Common
63	Red-rumped Swallow	Common
64	White Wagtail	Common
65	Black-headed Wagtail	Common
66	Citrine Wagtail	Makara river mouth
67	Nightingale	Common
68	Whinchat	Common
69	Stonechat	Common
70	Black-eared Wheatear	Common
71	Northern Wheatear	Common
72	Isabelline Wheatear	Ipsilou, Antissa
73	Spotted Flycatcher	Common
74	Pied Flycatcher	Faneromeni fields
75	Zitting Cisticola	Common
76	Cetti’s Warbler	Common
77	Sedge Warbler	Common
78	Reed Warbler	Common
79	Great Reed Warbler	Common
80	Sardinian Warbler	Common
81	Eastern Orphean Warbler	Common
82	Subalpine Warbler	Common
83	Rueppell’s Warbler	Haramida
84	Blackcap	Common
85	Olivaceous Warbler	Common
86	Great Tit	Common
87	Blue Tit	Common
88	Rock Nuthatch	Common
89	Kruepper’s Nuthatch	Achladeri forest
90	Golden Oriole	Faneromeni, Sigri, Meladia
91	Red-backed Shrike	Faneromeni
92	Woodchat Shrike	Common
93	Masked Shrike	Haramida, Napi
94	Jay	Common
95	Hooded Crow	Common
96	Raven	Ipsilou
97	House Sparrow	Common
98	Spanish Sparrow	Kalloni
99	Chaffinch	Common
100	Greenfinch	Common
101	Goldfinch	Common
102	Linnet	Meladia
103	Cirl Bunting	Common
104	Cretzschmar’s Bunting	Common
105	Cinereous Bunting	Ipsilou, Parakila, Apothika
106	Corn Bunting	Common
107	Black-headed Bunting	Common